No, I’m not going Vegan…
Truth be told, most of the recipe books that make their way into our household are to satisfy the quest for some new inspo in the kitchen. Rarely are they because we actually need to learn some new technique because we are experienced cooks and it’s new and different ways of combining ingredients that captures our interest.
However, our household is also on a quest to reduce carbon emissions (and the electricity bill), and though we have heard the evangelical enthusiasm for air fryers for a while now, we only purchased one late last year and are still learning how to use it. (FWIW ours is a Phillips.)
I bought the Women’s Weekly Super Easy Air Fryer Cookbook, and was disappointed. It is full of unappealing so-called family recipes, many of them high fat even if they are less fatty than deep fried. I should have known from page 9 where it lists the five best foods to cook in an air fryer: roast vegies, crisp chickpeas, crumbed foods, pizza and calzone, and meatballs and sausages. I should have known from the fact that ‘family friendly’ fish means Fish Tacos and Fish Cakes. I should have known from the inclusion of just one vegetarian ‘weeknight’ recipe: Mozzarella Mushroom Burgers. We haven’t cooked a single recipe from it.
But without any help from that cookbook, The Spouse has mastered the art of cooking perfect recognisable fish, such as the Blue Eye that we had with (my) ratatouille this week. Very good, nutritious, genuinely low-fat food can be cooked in an air fryer, and because it heats up so quickly it’s faster (and much cheaper) than an oven.
We eat vegetarian at least twice a week, so the Healthy Vegan Air Fryer Cookbook piqued my interest. The author’s PoV is that eating a plant-based diet can mean eating more plants, not eating only plants.
This collection of vegan recipes sets out to reinvent classic recipes, create innovate new flavours and highlight the beauty of plant-based foods. (p.7)
The Contents list comprises:
- Air fryer basics
- Breakfasts
- Mains
- Sides
- Snacks and Salads
- Desserts
- Index
The Air Fryer Basics section is brief. Two pages which is not adequate IMO because clearly some recipes call for accessories which we don’t have and it doesn’t explain why they’re necessary. Then there are two pages *yawn* about the benefits of plant-based foods.
The cookbook’s design, however, is well done; The layout is clear, and the font is big enough for easy reading. The ingredients list is well set out into the different parts of more complex recipes, and there’s a nutrition panel, a calorie count, plus prep and cook times. Air fryer temperature, alas, is in Fahrenheit necessitating conversions for 380°F and 390°F and 400°F etc. (They could very easily have included Celsius, but American book designers don’t think that way, I guess.) Nearly all the recipes have an accompanying photo. Sometimes there are ‘tips’ for do-ahead strategies or a ‘different spin’.
So, to the recipes…
Breakfasts. Hmm. Lots of sweet things though the Chocolate and Zucchini Muffins look okay, but #Shudder my antennae went on high alert when I see the use of fake meats such as something called a vegan sausage pattie with a recommended brand to buy. These turn up in Breakfast Sandwiches too. I do not eat ultra processed foods and plant-based meat substitutes are (mostly? always?) ultra processed. And then there’s 3-Ingredient Everything Bagels, made with ‘everything bagel seasoning’. What is that? Oh. This. As far as I can see, it’s just seeds, garlic, salt and onion, with or without chilli. What kind of recipe book doesn’t give the proportions so that you have to buy a $20 jar of readily available seeds?
Let’s move onto Mains. There are some interesting ideas here. I am doubtful about the entire concept of a Po’Boy but our surfeit of tomatoes refusing to ripen might respond well to being cooked as fried green tomatoes in panko breadcrumbs. I’m always on the lookout for BBQ-friendly ideas for vegetarian friends and Balsamic Mushroom Burgers served with avocado and hummus looks like a winner. (There’s no recipe for hummus, I guess because you make it in a food processor not an air fryer. But still.) I like the look of Chickpea Burgers too. There’s an enticing Cauliflower Casserole with Cashew Cream Sauce, and who knew that you could make a Cashew Stir Fry in an air fryer? And if you like Mexican: empanadas, enchiladas, taquitos, quesadillas and tacos, there are good recipes for those too.
Jackfruit as a substitute for the crab in crabcakes sounds intriguing. Google tells me it has a stringy texture not unlike meat and a bland taste so I guess that the addition of Old Bay Seasoning is to jazz it up. But what is Old Bay Seasoning? It turns out you can buy it at Woolworths where you can see the list of ingredients in it, so I suppose you could experiment with making your own if you’d rather not eat the ‘anti-caking’ agent.
Oh dear, this use of processed foods get worse. There is a Tater Tot Casserole, touted as a brilliant hack for topping a casserole. From what I can see online, frozen Tater Tots are what is sold here as Potato Gems which are the most repellent way of cooking a potato that I know.
The section on Sides is more to my taste. I’d never thought of making Falafel in the air fryer, and you can use it to make Rosemary Flatbread too. Carrot Fries with Lemon and Garlic Aioli look like a useful addition to the ‘nibbles’ repertoire, and I could use up the thick liquid from a tin of chickpeas (aquafaba) to make crispy Onion Rings. With eggplants growing in the garden it’s possible we could tire of Ratatouille made to the recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking so I might well try Mini Eggplants with Tahini Sauce (and prettied up with pomegranate seeds!) Hasselback Sweet Potatoes, oh yes please!
Snacks and Salads mostly look good too. There’s Avocado Egg Rolls with black beans and salsa or Panko-Crusted Avocado Wedges; Beet chips with Creamy Dill Sauce (made with cashew nuts) look especially enticing if made with golden beets as well as red ones. Kale chips, I’m not so sure. You can make bruschetta in the air fryer too, not just the Tomato and Garlic one in this cookbook but also the Tomato and Sardine version from the River Cottage Good Comfort cookbook. But there are some things I would never bother with, such as the cauliflower florets in panko breadcrumbs. Life, as they say, is too short to stuff a mushroom and likewise to crumb a floret. There is a dependence on crispy ‘fried’ ideas, but I suppose that is why many people buy an air fryer.
It’s certainly brilliant for quickly roasting up the vegetables for a Roasted Veggie Soup.
Desserts: Lots of ideas. I’m tempted to try the Pear Clafoutis, and it seems you can make shortbread in the air fryer. (I have a new recipe for Macadamia Nut Shortbread thanks to Ben Ungermann at Masterchef and it goes really well with cucumber sorbet — courtesy of the surfeit in the vegetable patch.) You can also use the air fryer to make Peach Parfaits or a Blueberry Crisp (which my Encyclopedia of American Cooking calls a ‘crumble’). The method for Cinnamon Twists to use up leftover pie dough also suggests that I could use it to make one of my go-to recipes for nibbles: Herby Cheese Twists.
The prime disadvantage of this cookbook is that it’s American and though the ingredients are listed in both imperial and metric, Australian cooks will need to remember that imperial cup and spoon measurements are not the same as metric. As long as you use the same cup for measuring out each ingredient, the proportions should work out the same. (But did you know that there are two US cup measurements? Yes, there is a US ‘legal cup’ and a US ‘customary cup’. Read this summary of Measuring Cups and Spoons Worldwide, and you’ll either laugh or cry.)
However, spoon measurements are trickier. A Google search tells me that in Australia — the only country in the world to set this standard — a tablespoon measure holds 20ml or 4 teaspoons. In the US, UK and New Zealand a tablespoon holds 15mls or 3 teaspoons. (Is this crazy, or what? ) Sometimes this may not matter much: Two US tablespoons of seeds (30ml) on some Poppy Seed Scones is not that different to two Australian tablespoons (40ml) and if it ‘looks wrong’ you simply don’t sprinkle all of them on the scones. But a 10ml difference in the amount of water added to some Peanut Butter and Chia Breakfast Squares is going to affect the dough. Fortunately our teaspoons are the same (5ml, 2.5 grams)…
Normally, this kind of messing about with measurements would make me hesitate to recommend a cookbook, but the thing is that there’s not much else available in this niche space. There’s a gap in the market for an Australian Vegan/Vegetarian air fryer cookbook!
Author: Dana Angelo White
Title: Healthy Vegan Air Fryer Cookbook
Publisher: Alpha (DK), 2020
ISBN: 9781465493316, pbk., 160 pages
Review copy courtesy of Bloombury via Penguin Random House.
ANZ LitLovers LitBlog
I’m vegan. Like you, I “shudder” at the thought of those fake meat whatsists. Apart from all the crap in them, the thought of anything that has a meat texture is off-putting.
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By: Guy Savage on February 12, 2023
at 9:58 am
We have a vegan cafe in our local shopping centre, and my experience of many years of near-vegetarianism means that I have a preference for the freshness and delicacy of plant-based foods. All the legume-based casseroles I cook (with sauces from Indian and Italian cuisines) are all made in a deep frypan on the stove, not in an oven.
So I’m starting to question whether this book would have much appeal for vegans such as yourself. Air fryers are mostly used to make crispy things, and though they can be used as an alternative to an oven, they’re no good for recipes involving sauces (such as the ratatouille.)
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By: Lisa Hill on February 12, 2023
at 10:11 am
PS I have the new Ottolenghi Flavour cookbook, so there may be better plant-based recipes in that. I’ve only browsed it so far…
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By: Lisa Hill on February 12, 2023
at 10:59 am
Why would vegans want pretend meats. I just don’t “get” this. If you give up meat don’t you give up ”meat”? It seems so counterintuitive. I do eat meat, but I love vegetable and other plant-based foods – freshly cooked and real! If you want a “steak” have a cauliflower “steak” not some brown processed whatever. (I’m speaking to the general “you”, not the present company!)
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By: whisperinggums on February 13, 2023
at 11:33 pm
Exactly. I think there are a few reasons:
Some people are vegans for health reasons (cardiac) so perhaps they want the simulation.
I also think it’s not easy being a vegan restaurant so a lot of regular restaurants offer a vegan option and these fake burgers/steaks fir that slot. Easy. No craft, no imagination. Instant more or less.
I also think that some cultures can’t get away from the meat, potato and veg paradigm
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By: Guy Savage on February 14, 2023
at 2:37 am
Yes, all that Guy I realise, particularly the health reasons. I just wanted to make the point! And, of course, our capitalist culture sees a way of making money and goes for it
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 9:17 am
One reason might be that there are other people in their lives who are not vegan. A parent trying to cater for (stereotyping here, I know) teenage vegan daughter and a carnivore adolescent son. Or trying to do a dinner party for guests who eat meat. But I think it’s misguided. I’ve often had to cater for both and I’ve always found that the carnivores muscle in on the Vegetarian lasagne (which is actually vegan) and the chestnut pie (which isn’t (but could be) because my pastry is buttery rich.) It’s easy to do Indian or Chinese vegan or vegetarian dishes too. But I do ‘get’ the problem if there are people who expect to see a lump of brown protein on their plate.
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By: Lisa Hill on February 14, 2023
at 7:14 am
Yes, all true . As I said to Guy I just wanted to make the point. I really do get the reasons! Vegan lasagne sounds interesting. No dairy either. I think all real foodies enjoy all good food whatever it is – Vegan, vegetarian, omnivore. We have a class restaurant in Canberra which tried vegan for a year in 2021. It was so successful they’ve continued it. Such delicious food.
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 9:21 am
I have dithered over getting an air-fryer for some time. A few friends rave about them (predominantly for making roast vegetables, schnitzels and that kind of thing) but the friends that love them have small families, and I am cooking for six every night (inc three teenage/ 20+ boys who eat, eat, eat)… so I either need an enormous air-fryer (takes up too much space to justify the amount I’d use it) OR I cook dinner in many shifts (not happening).
Despite one friend making the most delicious air-fried chicken over summer, I have decided to keep it simple and stay true to the two pans I use on constant rotation – a large cast iron/ enamel casserole dish and a huge Scanpan roasting dish that can be used on top of the stove (that way I can cook eight schnitzels at once!) and in the oven (and the schnitzels go into the oven to become parmigana and I only wash one pan at the end of it).
I had the same issue years ago when the Thermomix was all the rage – I already had a great food processor and blender (in fact, I’ve had the same ones for 25 years, they’re still fine) so didn’t need it for that function and the cooking aspect of the Thermomix posed same problem as air fryer – doesn’t cope with quantity.
Long way of saying that I reckon there will be lots of air fryers on hard rubbish collections in about five years!
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By: Kate W on February 12, 2023
at 1:40 pm
Well, yes to all that… but they say the same about ice cream makers and I use mine every time we run out of ice cream. (And I have become the most terrible ice cream snob too.)
Of course we are only a family of two, so it’s actually better from an energy-reduction PoV for us.
Having said that, I’m using up the excess zucchini in a zucchini, nut and raisin loaf today, and I am cooking it in the oven.
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By: Lisa Hill on February 12, 2023
at 2:41 pm
An ice-cream maker is one appliance that does take up some space in my cupboard but I haven’t got rid of it yet – I used to make ice cream a lot. Not so much these days but I appreciate the value of the churn so I’m holding onto it.Think I’ll keep the cupboard-prime-realestate for that instead of an air-fryer!
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By: Kate W on February 12, 2023
at 2:48 pm
Ah well, that’s another issue too. If we had to retrieve the air fryer every time we wanted to use it, it would already be on the nature strip for recycling. We’re not short of cupboard space because in the adjacent Left Wing (a.k.a. family room), we have two huge storage units (bookshelves above, stuff in cupboards below) but like everyone, we have limited bench space. So we shuffle things according to usage and weight. That ice cream maker is heavy and so is the Kenwood, so they came out of the cupboard when I broke my wrist and the bread maker went into it. The yoghurt maker gets a work out about once a fortnight but it lives in the cupboard because it’s not heavy.
I wish I had an island bench but our kitchen just isn’t big enough so we have an Ikea trolley on wheels which gives us extra prep space.
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By: Lisa Hill on February 12, 2023
at 2:57 pm
My sister loves her air fryer but only for certain things and she’s a very accomplished cook but she hasn’t convinced me to buy one, because WHERE WOULD I PUT IT? I love my new apartment but the kitchen is smaller and more basic than my London one and because it’s open plan I don’t like having things on show. But anyway… I’m near vegetarian and you’ve just flagged something that’s been troubling me for awhile… many of the vegan products on the market are processed within an inch of their life! A few months back I thought I’d try some vegan veggie burgers … It wasn’t until I got home that I noticed on the packaging that the shelf life was 3+ months!!! What on earth do they put in them to make them last that long in the fridge? Loads and loads and loads of salt it turns out. I won’t be buying them again.
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By: kimbofo on February 12, 2023
at 3:27 pm
I don’t like processed food and I avoid it as much as I can, but I’ve been horrified to read about the hyper-processing in new vegan products. And while I understand that lots of people don’t like cooking and don’t have time for it anyway, I still don’t think it’s necessary or healthy to buy processed foods. When i was on my own, and had neither money nor time because I was coaching kids every night after school to pay the bills, we were vegetarian by necessity and I cooked very simple inexpensive things from scratch. I can get a delicious legume curry and rice on the table to satisfy a teenage male appetite in 20 minutes. Actual prep time <5 mins. Just an onion, a clove of garlic, a tin of tomatoes and some coconut milk, some spices and a tin of chick peas if I hadn't had time to soak and cook them up on the weekend. (Charmaine Solomon's Asian Cookbook, what a lifesaver!)
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By: Lisa Hill on February 12, 2023
at 3:42 pm
I can’t handle American cook books. Everything bought is processed convenience. There are a couple things I miss but have learned to do without them. We have had our air fryer for about 3 or 4 months. I just try to think of veggie things and I do find meat cooks well. Whenever I have to do conversions I ask Alexa. She lives in my room, on the shelf and we seem to talk a lot. Weather, cooking conversions, definitions of words when reading. She is like another household member. Continued good luck.
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By: TravellinPenguin on February 12, 2023
at 4:48 pm
Well, I would agree, except for my 2-volume Encyclopedia of American cooking. It was published in the 1950s, so it was before all that processed food took hold. I learned to cook pumpkin pie from that cookbook!
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By: Lisa Hill on February 12, 2023
at 6:24 pm
I do enjoy older American books. I don’t know how processed, convenience food took over to such an extent. Anytime you want to come here and cook an American pumpkin pie, consider yourself invited😀
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By: TravellinPenguin on February 13, 2023
at 9:27 am
The recipe has been road tested by my neighbour who is a much-loved US import! She loves it.
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By: Lisa Hill on February 13, 2023
at 9:54 am
If there’s one dish I really don’t like it’s American (or any, but it’s Americans who primarily make it) pumpkin pie. I don’t know what it is but I never could like it. Of course now I avoid wheat, it’s off the radar anyhow.
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By: whisperinggums on February 13, 2023
at 11:24 pm
It’s basically just a custard made with caramelised pumpkin with spices, and so some recipes are better than others, but yes, unless you could make the pastry some other way, it’s not an option for you.
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By: Lisa Hill on February 14, 2023
at 7:23 am
That could be nice! I’ve tried some gf pies and haven’t yet met a good pastry. They are either cardboard or too soft and thick.
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 9:25 am
Actually, you could make it without a crust…
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By: Lisa Hill on February 14, 2023
at 9:53 am
Ah I suppose you could … would you be willing to send me the recipe? See if I can be converted!!
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 10:32 am
Ah I suppose you could. Would you be willing to send me the recipe? See if I can be converted! (This is my second attempt to reply … first time I got an error)
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 10:34 am
I love my air fryer but really I just use it to cook exactly the same foods as always, just in the air fryer rather than the oven. I was put off one for ages because like you I don’t eat fried foods or ultra processed foods and the main claim seemed to be they were good for fries. It was rising energy prices and the waste of heating an oven for two people that pushed me! I’m very tempted by a vegan air fryer cookbook but I don’t think this has enough in it that I would cook, although the Sides section does sound good!
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By: madamebibilophile on February 12, 2023
at 11:32 pm
Perhaps this niche side of the market is trying to be all things to all cooks, and pitching it to the market that buys all those fried things at the supermarket because that’s what families apparently eat.
I didn’t realise how out of the mainstream we were until The Offspring came home from Domestic Science at school, having learned to cook fish fingers. He’d never had fish fingers in his life. (When we wanted fish for dinner, he and his father went out on the bay and caught some.) But on reflection, I realised that the teacher was pitching ‘to the masses’ and for most of those students the familiarity of fish fingers was appealing to cook.
No wonder there is an obesity problem.
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By: Lisa Hill on February 13, 2023
at 9:29 am
Ah interesting! Mr K was gifted an air fryer at Christmas by the Offspring though in reality it’s me that’s been using it the most and I do like it. A great alternative to putting the big oven on when there are just two of us. I’ve kept it simple so far but like it very much. The book sounds potentially good though I do wonder at the amount of processed food, which I try to avoid… I don’t necessarily want something that tries to be meat….
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By: kaggsysbookishramblings on February 12, 2023
at 11:32 pm
Keeping it clean is a pain. I don’t know about you, but I do not clean my oven *every* time I use it, but I do have to clean the A-F every time…
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By: Lisa Hill on February 13, 2023
at 9:35 am
Hm… well, at least the sides sound good. I dislike cookbooks that tell you which product you should buy for a recipe – that’s advertising and manipulative, if you ask me. Plus, not everyone who buys this book will be living in a place where these products are available. So much better to give ingredients, and then say that if you can get X product, you can use that as a substitute. Shame because I have an air fryer and a vegan son!
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By: Davida Chazan on February 13, 2023
at 3:56 am
I agree 100%. It feeds into this idea that domestic cooks can’t do it themselves.
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By: Lisa Hill on February 13, 2023
at 9:39 am
I have no spare kitchen bench space for an air fryer but was heartened to read this Lisa – years ago I went to a talk by Peter Singer who pointed out if we would eat less meat we would be healthier and massively reduce animal suffering – I’ve been as near as I can manage to vegetarian ever since, given that I do permit a very small amount of chicken or fish. Each time I see the trucks transporting frightened sheep and cattle here with no shelter from sun or rain I get so upset!
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By: Sue on February 13, 2023
at 3:33 pm
I really admire Peter Singer and the way that he has applied philosophy to everyday things that matter.
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By: Lisa Hill on February 13, 2023
at 4:47 pm
Yes, I learnt long ago, because of all our time in the USA, that our Aus tablespoon at 20mIs was not only bigger than the US 15 mls but the British one too. That stunned me as initially I assumed the USA was different and that we’d be like the UK, but not so! How did this happen?
We have recently bought a multi-function cooker, which includes an air fryer function, but are still learning how to use it. We haven’t bought a cookbook yet but I’d particularly like to try some dessert options like a crisp (or crumble!)
I have (had, I should say) some Old BaySeasoning, sent to me when my Internet Book group did a sort of Secret Santa where you were given someone to send gifts to from your neck of the woods. Food and food related items often featured, and for me one year Old Bay Seasoning was in the parcel, because it was from the area of the sender. Sometimes I tossed potatoes in oil and some OBS before baking. It was pretty tasty! I guess it’s like people here might buy, say, curry powder for a kedgeree rather than mix their own spices.
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By: whisperinggums on February 13, 2023
at 11:17 pm
As I say, this whole measurement thing is crazy.
As for curry powder, well, all curries would taste the same, yes? I learned to cook mine from Charmaine Solomon’s Asian Cookbook, which for Indian, Pakistani and Sri Lankan recipes, uses different combos of spices for recipes using more or less the same ingredients.
One cuisine not included in her book is Afghan, and if you’ve ever been to an Afghan restaurant, you know that there’s a distinctive flavour which is irresistible but hard to reproduce!
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By: Lisa Hill on February 14, 2023
at 7:30 am
Yes, I have the Charmaine Solomon too from the 1976. For kedgeree of course it’s an Indian curry powder and I usually do just use a store bought one. Most other curries or “spicy” food I use the original spices.
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 9:37 am
I’ve never made kedgeree!
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By: Lisa Hill on February 14, 2023
at 9:53 am
Any reason? I love rice … and the when I went hard on a food intolerance diet kedgeree was a good tasty recipe for me.
We did a family brunch for My Gums’ 40th. We’d only been in the US for a few months, had no babysitters etc, so it was brunch with the other Aussie families. Kedgeree was a significant part of the menu because it was easy to scale up and cook for a crowd!
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 10:39 am
I make something like it: a biryani!
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By: Lisa Hill on February 14, 2023
at 11:24 am
PS Replying to your other comment, yes, I’ll send the recipe.
LOL Now that there’s never anything interesting to add to my travel blog, I’ve been thinking I should start a food blog…
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By: Lisa Hill on February 14, 2023
at 11:28 am
You should. I’d read it.
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 11:11 pm
Don’t tempt me…
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By: Lisa Hill on February 15, 2023
at 9:48 am
Why not … haha!
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By: whisperinggums on February 15, 2023
at 10:01 am
Oh, I love a biryani too. If I want a hearty dish that’s what I’ll go for at Indian restaurants that do them. There are very few rice dishes I don’t like, particularly in the savoury line (but some I have to avoid for my food intolerances – those with tomato and cheese. Love risottos, for example, but have to be careful with restaurant ones.)
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By: whisperinggums on February 14, 2023
at 11:15 pm
Like Kate, I’m dithering about getting an air fryer. I’m worried in case it would turn out to be yet another gadget taking up space in my kitchen. Plus, there are now so many versions I’m confused what would be a good option.
I share your frustration with the determination of US publishers to ignore the fact that much of the rest of the world uses metric measurements. By the time I’ve worked out what they mean by some ingredients and then done the conversion of the quantities I’ve lost all interest in the cooking!
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By: BookerTalk on February 21, 2023
at 9:19 am
My answer to your dilemma is to consider how much and how you use your oven, which is a hungry power user. An air fryer is basically a smaller benchtop oven which heats and cooks more quickly so it’s much cheaper to run. But only for some things, and only for small families unless you’re willing to do batches. If you don’t use your oven much, and when you do you mostly cook ‘wet’ things e.g. chicken in some kind of sauce, IMO it’s not worth your while to have it.
It’s strange the trivial things the world can’t agree on, that are inconvenient and cost us all money. Measurements, left- and right-hand drive cars, shoe and dress sizes. The UN should do something about it!
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By: Lisa Hill on February 21, 2023
at 9:58 am